I wandered down to Custom
House Wharf this morning to meet up with my cousin for a cup of
coffee. It felt strangely comfortable returning to this place where I
had spent several summers working at his lobster and bait business.
The road down the wharf had received some much needed maintenance; a
new layer of tar on the section closest to Commercial Street near
Harbor Fish and the Port Hole Restaurant, but the condition degraded
quickly to pot holed dirt and cobblestone near the lobster shop and
the fishermen's shanties. The road at the end of the wharf was
unchanged; craters, mud and pools of fetid fish waste.
The cast of characters on
the wharf seemed the same at first glance. Lance sat on a milk crate
outside the Port Hole kitchen smoking a cigarette. The Port Hole had
reopened since being shut down by the Department of Health for sanitation and vermin issues which had resulted in a rash of food
poisoning. Still the tourists and the fishermen love the place as do
the bait shack workers. It's one of the few places left in town where
a man smelling like rotten fish wearing slime covered skins and boots
can be served coffee and breakfast at the counter.
Back in my corporate days
I remember I was in Portland for a meeting with the lawyers about
some moronic labor relations issue, dressed in my suit, power tie and
wing tips. I was early and tried to stop by to see my cousin but he
was not at the shop and I walked into the Port Hole looking for him.
Lance was behind the counter.
“What do you want,”
he asked. His eyes seem to look in different directions so I didn't
know if he was talking to me or the fisherman sitting at the counter.
After a pause I said “Seen Pete around?”
He cocked his head so
that his left eye focused directly on me and shook his head slowly,
warily, side to side. Of course he knew Pete. Pete had loaned Lance
money; Lance and half the other characters on the dock.
There was nothing else to
say so I turned toward the door. He called after me, “You with the
IRS?”...
Further down the wharf
Sam and Harold, the scruffy guys who maintained the dock, were
carrying pieces of rotten timbers to a job site. Sam's arthritis was
clearly getting more problematic and he hobbled along like an old dog
with hip dysplasia. Harold, the younger man, was wearing the same
dirty, grease covered clothing he always wore. He looked like the
picture of Saddam Hussein when they dragged him out of his hidey hole.
Mick was standing outside
the lobster pound talking with a truck driver and I enjoyed catching
up with him on this years lobster catch and the family. Another
cousin walked out to the shop and put me in a friendly bear hug. And
the catching up continued.
Pete had yet to show up on
the wharf so I walked toward the bait shop trying unsuccessfully to
keep the fish gore off my good sneakers. The bait shop was, as usual,
a circus of activity with forks trucks delivering pallets of poggies
and herring in blue and white, 55 gallon barrels to the truck dock
and salter. Several men I didn't recognized were loading bait onto
fishing boats on the wharf side of the building. Several more were loading a truck. I
shook hands with the foreman and three of the old crew and felt the
water which flowed across the work floor from hoses and leaky pipes
as it soaked my feet.
Pete came around the
corner and we entered the fly infested office so the foreman could
download his daily issues. Nothing had changed. The fly paper strips
hanging from the falling down ceiling were covered with thousands of
insects. The tools were rust covered. Bait slips hanging on nails
covered the walls. I listened as they talked about the supply and
demand and quality and location of bait. And then I listened as they
talked about the comments and behaviors of their customers.
The new truck driver,
Henry walked in the office. He was late for the second time this week
and the foreman and Pete took him to task. Henry begged forgiveness
and tried to explain.
“I've got this new
girlfriend.” he began. He dropped his voice and said in almost a
whisper, “I'm afraid she wants to kill me.”
Pete said, “Well that
sounds like a problem, but what does that have to do with you being
late for work?”
Henry explained. “Well
I've hidden all the kitchen knives and I wait for her to go to bed
and then I sleep on the outside of the bed and throw my arm over
her... so I will wake up if she tries to get out of bed... so she
won't stab me... but I'm not getting much sleep... so I'm late for
work...”
Pete said, “Henry, have
you thought about getting another girlfriend? One who doesn't want to
kill you?”
Henry said “Yeah,
that's probably a good idea. Thanks Pete.”
As we walked down the
wharf bound for the Irish breakfast at Ri' Ra's, I noticed new
stenciling on the side of the big box truck.
“ Coastal
Bait. Don't Call Us. We Don't Want Your Business.”
Kind
of counter intuitive marketing. But business is up 35% this season,
so, guess it's working. Of course, it's better than the last truck
stenciling put there as a joke. It remained on the side of the truck
for five years.
“Coastal
Bait. Maine's Only Homosexual Bait Dealer.”
You can't make this shit
up...
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