We're not in Kansas anymore, Dorothy...

Wow... I am struggling to claim words to describe this place to which we have come... Baku... in Azerbaijan, on the western shore of the Caspian Sea. We came here to see the country of our son-in-law, to meet his family, to honor Katie and Elnur's life together, to experience someplace so different from anything we have ever experienced. And, although we have been here only a day and a half, and most of that comatose from a day and a night of travel, we are finding it difficult to take it all in. When I say "we", I mean all of us; Kate, Elnur, Ryan, Kristen, Connie and me. It's a family affair.

 

 



We flew out of Jacksonville Florida on Wednesday, joined up with Kate and Elnur in DC and flew out of Dulles on Thursday. The pups are happily holding down the fort on Saint Simons Island with Mary Helen and Beth providing joint custody with visitation rights. And Momo is visiting Aunt Jordan and Uncle Devon in Arlington.

 

We rendezvoused with Ryan and Kristen at Heathrow Airport in London and after a 3 hour layover embarked on a 6 hour flight to Baku. We arrived at 7:30 PM and were warmly met by Elnur's father, Ilgar, his Uncl, Zamir and Ilgar's good friend Nadir.

We are staying at the Amber Hotel, just a 10 minute walk from downtown. The views from our balcony (s... we have 3!) are spectacular. Azerbaijan is an oil country. In the 1930 and 40s  they produced 50% of the world's petroleum and, though less prominent now with the development of other international global reserves, they are still very much in the energy business. The architecture reflects it, reminding me of pictures I have seen of Dubai. Azerbaijan was one of the 16 Soviet Union republics until their independence in 1991 and there is also a strong remaining Soviet Union architectural  and historic presence.

Azerbaijan is a secular country and has strong Muslin roots. Some of the women on the streets wore head scarves. Most did not. The fashion is very European. Restaurants are plentiful as are the shops; clothing, jewelry, shoes, liquor, internet cafes, coffee shops... everything you would find in any other large (4 million people) metropolitan city.

Some of our family and friends expressed concern for us going on this visit. The media and the government have fanned the flames of fear and prejudice. We are fed a constant diet of division and divisiveness. It's so difficult to find the truth and we don't claim to know it, but painting everyone with one brush is never true. I'm just saying...

 



 

 

 

 

After 10 hours of much needed sleep (for those who could. Jet lag hammered Coucou and Kate) and after a great buffet breakfast of eggs, sausage (turkey), tomatoes, cucumbers, fried eggplant, olives and some fantastic bread, we walked downtown.

After a nap, we gathered for a cab ride to Ilgar's home where we were introduced to some of the most wonderful people you'll ever meet. If you have met Elnur you'll understand when I say "the apple don't fall far from the tree." The 86 year old grandfather, Elnur's sisters, uncles, aunts, cousins, nieces nephews. It was a such a wonderful opportunity to meet everyone. And the traditional, delicious Azeri meal they presented was beyond description.

 

 

Poor Elnur talked himself hoarse with everyone competing for his translating abilities.  It was so heartwarming to see how much Katie was loved and accepted by her new family. We are very grateful and proud to be a part of this wonderful extended family.

 

End of Day 1. Can't begin to imagine what will come tomorrow.

 

Stay tuned...